Two Old Crows Folk Art Tips

Sharing the tips and techniques we have learned over the years with other in the hope of sparking their imagination and inspiring them to create

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"What I know is, is that if you do work that you love, and the work fulfills you, the rest will come."
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Mirror Mirror
If you're interested in seeing your creations - graphic or otherwise - in an objective way, hold the item up in front of and facing a mirror from a distance of 3 to 5 feet.. You'll be better able to critique your item and tell where another detail may be added, or another color repeated, or an area needs to be broken up with an addition of something.I rely on this method with everything I make and it never fails to give me success!
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Painting Clay Pots
Tuesday, May 29, 2007
With Spring here and Summer just around the corner many of us are planting flower gardens and adding flowers to our porches and patios. Decorating a plan terra cotta pot with a bit of artwork can add a pleasing affect. Clay pots are inexpensive and fun to paint. Preparing your pot properly before painting is the most important step and will ensure that your creative artwork will last. Here is how I prepare and paint the pots I use and have found by doing the following steps my pots have lasted many years and do not have paint peeling off.

1.Always start with a clean dry pot. To clean your pot soak them in hot soapy water with a couple of tablespoons of bleach for about 15 minutes. Remove and rinse thoroughly. Allow the pot to dry completely remembering clay is very porous. Do not try to clean and paint the pot on the same day.

2. I do not paint the inside my pots. I only paint down a few inches from the top edge on the inside

3. Paint the outside of the pot with acrylic paint using 2- 3 coats and allowing it to dry completely between coats.

4. Pots can be painted with simple designs or even decoupage on. I sometimes like to decoupage seed packets on to my pots using modge podge and following the instructions on the jar. You can also stamp on pots. Just let your imagination decide how you would like to decorate your pot for your décor.

5. After you are finished painting and applying your design let the pot dry completely and then apply a water based polyurethane and allow to dry for a week before planting in them.

By following these few simple steps your pots wiil last for years and not bubble or peel. Have fun painting- this can be a great project to do with your kids !

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posted by Debbie- Two Old Crows (www.2oldcrows.com) @ 11:32 AM   0 comments
How to Paint Paper Mache
Sunday, February 18, 2007
Painting Paper Mache

Always looking for new surfaces to paint on paper mache offers a wide variety of shape and sizes at a very reasonable price. Paper mache to paint can be found in stores such as Walmart, Hobby Lobby, Michaels and Jo Ann….it can even be easily bought on the internet. These various shapes can be painted for holiday use and for home decor.

Paper mache has a very porous texture. It is easy to paint with the paint adhering quickly and drying in a short time, this drying process can even be made faster with a fan or hair dryer. I have found that acrylic paints work best with paper mache and applies best with a expensive sponge brush. The most prevalent problem with paper mache is getting it too wet this will make the piece lose it's shape.

Paint should be applied in smooth even coats and let dry thoroughly. If the paint does not dry completely the next coat may become lumpy or pull off. Be sure to sand lightly between each coat , I like to use a brown paper grocery bag just be sure there is no print on it. Always wipe your piece with a tack cloth after sanding to remove residue.

If you only wish for the piece to have a tinted look just water down your acrylic paint with water and follow the same steps.

After you are finished with your piece and it is completely dry use a good sealant to protect it this can either be a brush or varnish type.

Have fun painting paper mache and experiment with a variety of faux painting finishes, stenciling, tole painting to achieve different effects. It’s an expensive way to make wonderful decorative items for yourself , to sell or give as gifts.

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posted by Debbie- Two Old Crows (www.2oldcrows.com) @ 7:58 AM   0 comments
Folk Art Painting - Wood Preparation
Tuesday, January 02, 2007
Folk Art Painting- Wood Preparation

As a folk artist I have found that wood preparation before painting is very important- if you want a beautiful finished product you must take the time to prepare your wood properly- no amount of painting will cover up the flaws that should have been fixed before painting. Below are a few tips and techniques that I have found helpful in wood preparation.

Choose your wood carefully- avoid wood that is warped and has knot holes and is marred

Fill in all holes, scratches and gouges with wood filler and let dry completely, sand and refill if necessary

Spot seal any knots with Jo Sonya's Tanning Blocker or product like it- knot can bleed through paint and make terrible brown rings

Sand wood with 150-220 grit sand paper making sure to sand with the grain. If you sand against the grain you will have scratches.

Be sure to sand all edges and wipe with a tack cloth

Seal the wood on all surfaces with a water based sealer- if you don't seal because wood is a porous material the grain will raise when the paint is applied making the surface bumpy .

Allow the sealer to dry completely following instructions on the product

Sand one more time with 220-400 grit sand paper to remove any grain that may have arose - this will give the piece a nice smooth surface to paint on.

Wipe the piece completely with a tack cloth.

Now you are ready to Paint !

For more great crafting tips and techniques visit us at Two Old Crows



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posted by Debbie- Two Old Crows (www.2oldcrows.com) @ 3:05 PM   0 comments
Folk Art Painting - Basecoating
Friday, September 08, 2006
Folk Art Painting- Basecoating

Basecoating is very important to the look of your finished product- you want the layers of paint as smooth as possible. The tips below I have found helpful when basecoating an object or piece of wood.

Use a good brush. Many people basecoat with sponge brushes which can work well for a large area and are inexpensive and can be disposed of. I prefer a 3/4 wash brush for most project, with this brush I can achieve a more even and smooth coat of paint.

Do not overload your brush with paint. To much paint will leave ridges on either side of the brush. Pick up paint from the edge of your puddle of paint on your palette and work into the bristles of the brush ( do not work the paint down into the shaft portion- this will ruin your brush).

Always use the largest brush possible for the space- I know this is scary but will lead to less brush strokes which will make smoother work.

For background basing use your sponge brush or 3/4 wash brush. Basecoat the design area by first outlining the section you are painting and then filling in the middle- this will lead to few strokes.


Do not put the first coat on too heavy - it will take more than one coat to cover. Sand lightly between coats and wipe with a tack cloth before applying a second coat. Most colors will only require 2 coats but colors such as certain greens, red and yellow will require more. Be patient and put nice smooth coats on. Sometimes it helps to paint the first coat under red an orange color.


Clean your brush if the paint begins to dry in it - this will cause the bristles in the brush to split thus giving you an uneven coat.


Good luck with basecoating !

Posted by:
Debbie
Visit us at Two Old Crows for more great crafting tips and techniques

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posted by Debbie- Two Old Crows (www.2oldcrows.com) @ 6:26 AM   0 comments
About Us

About Us: Two Old Crows was named for Debbie and Dean because we are old and grumpy. We enjoy scouring flea markets, antique shops and estate sales for vintage and antique items to mix with the folk art we create.
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